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I’ve always loved fish cakes but had never tried to make them before, until I came across this recipe in Bill Granger’s Bill’s Basics. It’s a sort of jazzed-up version with a whole lot of fresh, zingy flavours. He recommended serving them with a sort of pared down dip which he described as a raita but I thought it seemes more like a tzatziki.

Tzatziki

250g yoghurt

1 lebanese cucumber (or half a normal one), peeled, deseeded and finely chopped

1 tbsp chopped mint

Juice of half a lime

Stir together all the ingredients and season with salt and pepper.

Fishcakes

300g potatoes

415g tin red salmon, drained

40g plain flour, plus extra for dusting

2 eggs

4 spring onions, finely chopped

3 tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley

3 tbsp chopped coriander

2 small red chillies, deseeded and finely chopped

1 tspn grated fresh ginger

2 tbsp crème fraiche

160g fresh breadcrumbs

Zest of 1 lemon

Vegetable oil, for frying

Boil the potatoes in salted boiling water until cooked, and mash with a little butter.

Put in a bowl with salmon, flour, eggs, spring onions, parsley, coriander, chilli, ginger, lemon zest, creme fraiche and breadcrumbs and season with sea salt and grouund black pepper.

Mix well. Shape into balls and flatten a little, then dust with flour.

Heat the oil in a frying pan over a medium-high heat. Fry the fish cakes in batches until golden.

Serve with the tzatziki and lime wedges.